"20s or 40s?" When placing clothing orders, sourcing managers constantly face this question. Even while shopping, you've probably heard sales reps say: "This fabric has a higher yarn count" with price differences.

 

Let's demystify yarn count - the most discussed term in textile manufacturing. Using T-shirts as examples, we'll explore how yarn count determines quality through three sections:

 

1️⃣ What is yarn count?

 

2️⃣ Does higher count = better fabric?

 

3️⃣ Pros/Cons of common T-shirt yarn counts

How Yarn Numbers Define T-Shirt Quality

 

Part 1: What Is Yarn Count?

 

Yarn count measures thread thickness.

 

Here's the rule: The longer the thread spun from a fixed fiber weight, the higher the count.

 

Example:

 

1kg cotton → 30km thread = 30s (30-count)

1kg cotton → 50km thread = 50s (50-count)

Higher count = finer threads = thinner, softer fabric.

 

Why? More threads per inch = tighter weave:

 

→ 60s thread is twice as thin as 30s

 

→ 60s fabric feels silkier than 30s

Part 2: Is Higher Yarn Count Always Better?

 

No. Fabric quality primarily depends on raw material grade.

 

Examples:

 

Handwoven low-count fabrics can be breathable & cozy

Poor-quality cotton can't make high-count yarns (max 21s-32s)

 

Watch these paradoxes:

 

→ 60s requires long-staple cotton (premium material)

 

→ 80s using regular cotton may feel worse than 60s

 

Key takeaway: Don't blindly chase high counts.

Part 3: T-Shirt Yarn Count Showdown

 

21s: Budget Workhorse

 

✅ Pros:

 

Excellent breathability (plain weave cools fast)

Cost-effective (perfect for gym/undershirts)

 

⚠️ Cons:

 

Rough texture (avoid direct skin contact)

Cheap look (visible weave, thin colors show underwear)

32s: All-Rounder Champion

✅ Pros:

 

Balanced softness (two-ply twisted yarn technique)

Year-round wear (medium thickness breathes well)

 

⚠️ Cons:

 

Average luxury appeal

Slight fuzziness (not glass-smooth)

40s: Premium Darling

 

✅ Pros:

 

Silky touch (highest skin-friendly score)

Elegant drape (perfect for oversized styles)

Subtle sheen (elevates any outfit)

 

⚠️ Cons:

 

High maintenance (wrinkles easily, handwash only)

Visibility issues (shows sweat/underwear)

Lazy Person's Cheat Sheet

 

🔸 Need durability? → 21s (choose dark colors)

 

🔸 Want versatility? → 32s (never disappoints)

 

🔸 Crave luxury? → 40s (keep an iron and fabric softener handy)