20s vs 40s Yarn Count: 21s–40s T-Shirt Fabric Guide

Understand Yarn Count in 60 Seconds: 21s–40s T-Shirt Fabric Quality

H1: 20s vs 40s Yarn Count: What It Really Means for T-Shirt Quality (And Cost)

“20s or 40s?” If you source T-shirts or basic tops, you’ve heard this question a hundred times. Sales reps love to say “higher yarn count = better,” and prices jump fast.

Here’s the practical truth: yarn count affects feel and appearance, but it doesn’t automatically equal quality. In this guide, we’ll demystify 20s/30s/32s/40s yarn count using T-shirts as the simplest example.

Quick answer (if you’re busy):

• 20s–24s: thicker, tougher, more “workwear” handfeel

• 26s–32s: the safest all-round range for most brands

• 40s: smoother and more premium, but less forgiving (sheer/sweat/wrinkles)

Part 1: What Is Yarn Count (20s, 30s, 32s, 40s)?

Yarn count measures yarn fineness (thickness). For cotton T-shirts, “20s/30s/40s” usually refers to cotton count (Ne).

Simple rule of thumb:
Higher count = finer yarn = smoother fabric surface (when other factors are controlled).

Example (conceptual):

• 1 kg cotton → 30 km yarn ≈ 30s

• 1 kg cotton → 50 km yarn ≈ 50s

So yes, 40s is finer than 20s. But a T-shirt is typically knit (single jersey), not woven. In knits, yarn count influences:

• surface smoothness (less “grain”)

• drape (how it hangs)

• opacity (especially in light colors)

• how easily flaws show (pilling, unevenness, twist)

Important note: yarn count works together with GSM (fabric weight) and knit structure. A 32s tee at 160gsm behaves very differently from a 32s tee at 220gsm.

Part 2: Is Higher Yarn Count Always Better?

No—and this is where most sourcing mistakes happen.

1) Fiber quality sets the ceiling

High counts typically require better cotton (often longer staple) to keep strength and reduce hairiness. If the raw cotton is weak, pushing count higher can make yarn fragile or inconsistent.

2) Spinning + prep matter as much as count

Two tees can both be “32s” and feel completely different because of:

• Combed vs carded cotton (combed is cleaner and smoother)

• Ring-spun vs open-end (ring-spun is usually softer/stronger)

• Compact yarn (often smoother with less hairiness)

• 1-ply vs 2-ply (2-ply can feel denser, stronger, more premium)

3) Higher count can increase “visual risk”

Finer yarns often make issues more obvious:

• white/light colors can go sheer

• sweat can show more easily

• fabric can feel “delicate” if GSM is low

Key takeaway: Don’t chase high count blindly. Match yarn count to the product’s job (durability vs comfort vs premium handfeel).

Part 3: Common T-Shirt Yarn Counts (Pros / Cons)

20s–24s: The Durable Workhorse

Best for: uniform tees, merch tees, heavier basics, active “beater” tees

Pros

• thicker handfeel, more rugged

• better coverage (less see-through)

• often more tolerant in bulk production

Cons

• can feel rougher on sensitive skin (especially if carded/open-end)

• looks more casual; surface may appear less refined

Tip: If you want 20s durability without a “cheap” look, specify ring-spun + combed (and control finishing).

26s–32s: The All-Rounder Sweet Spot

Best for: most brand core tees, retail basics, club/team tees, everyday premium casual

Pros

• balanced softness + structure

• easy to build a consistent size spec and shrinkage control

• works across seasons with the right GSM

Cons

• not the “silkiest” feel unless you upgrade yarn/finishing

• low-GSM versions can still look thin in light colors

Buyer note: If you see “32s,” ask 32s what?
32s combed ring-spun is not the same as 32s carded/open-end.

40s: The Premium Feel (With Trade-Offs)

Best for: elevated basics, softer handfeel programs, fashion tees where drape matters

Pros

• smoother, silkier touch (especially with combed/compact yarn)

• nicer drape for relaxed/oversized silhouettes

• more “refined” surface for minimalist branding

Cons

• can be more transparent in white/light colors unless GSM is increased

• shows defects more easily (yarn unevenness, pilling, twist)

• may feel less rugged for heavy-duty wear

Practical fix: If you want 40s but hate sheerness, don’t “downgrade count.”
Increase GSM or adjust knit construction and finishing.

Quick Comparison Table (For Sourcing Decisions)

The Buyer Cheat Sheet: Which Yarn Count Should You Choose?

• Need durability & coverage? Choose 20s–24s (upgrade to combed/ring-spun if you want better handfeel).

• Need one safe default for most programs? Choose 26s–32s (best ROI for bulk).

• Need a premium handfeel story? Choose 40s (but manage GSM + opacity + QC).

What To Specify in Your PO (So “32s” Doesn’t Turn Into a Surprise)

If you only write “32s cotton,” you’re leaving too much room for interpretation. Add these lines:

• Yarn count: 32s / 40s

• Cotton type: combed or carded

• Spinning: ring-spun / compact / open-end

• Ply: 1-ply or 2-ply

• Knit: single jersey / interlock (if needed)

• Fabric weight: GSM range

• Key tests: shrinkage, pilling, spirality (twist), color fastness

• Bulk control: PPS approval + measurement tolerance

You can place internal links naturally here to fabric & trims sourcing, sampling workflow, and QC checklist.

FAQ (Long-Tail Answers Buyers Actually Search)

1) Is 40s always better than 32s for T-shirts?
Not always. 40s is finer and can feel smoother, but if GSM is low or yarn quality is average, it may look sheer and show defects faster.

2) What’s the best yarn count for a “premium but durable” tee?
Start with 30s–32s combed ring-spun, then tune GSM and finishing. This is the most forgiving premium baseline for bulk.

3) Why do two “32s” tees feel different?
Because count is only one variable. Combed vs carded, ring-spun vs open-end, ply, GSM, and finishing can change the feel dramatically.

4) How do I avoid see-through white tees?
Don’t rely on count alone. Control GSM, knit density, and finishing, and test opacity under bright light before bulk.

5) Does higher yarn count pill less?
Not automatically. Pilling is affected by fiber length, hairiness, spinning method, and finishing. A good 32s compact yarn can pill less than a poor 40s.

Final Takeaway

Yarn count is a useful shorthand—but it’s not a quality guarantee. For most brands, 26s–32s is the best balance of comfort, durability, and cost control. 40s is a premium route when you manage opacity and QC carefully, while 20s–24s wins when toughness and coverage matter most.

If you’re building a bulk tee program, the fastest way to avoid surprises is simple: spec count + yarn type + GSM + testing in one clear PO.