How Many Lives Can a Polyester Garment Have?

In 2024, the global polyester apparel market surpassed $150 billion, accounting for over 30% of total clothing production worldwide. Its dominance comes from polyester’s low cost and rapid manufacturability, especially for sportswear, outdoor gear, and functional fabrics like moisture-wicking knits. Sustainably certified polyester is projected to make up around 25% of global fashion brands’ material sourcing, as more brands look for “better” synthetics instead of virgin PET.

But with so many polyester garments entering the market each year, one key question remains:

How many lives can a single polyester garment really have?

In today’s system, the honest answer is: usually one to two lives at best. Mechanical recycling still dominates, and its limitations mean polyester can’t be melted and respun indefinitely. However, emerging enzymatic recycling technologies are starting to rewrite that story.

In this article, we look at polyester from two angles:

  1. How polyester garments are currently produced and mechanically recycled

  2. How new enzymatic recycling technologies could dramatically extend polyester’s lifecycle

1. How Polyester Garments Are Made Today

1.1 Lifecycle #1: Direct polyester production

Most polyester starts its life in the petrochemical industry. Crude oil is refined into chemical intermediates, which are polymerized into PET (polyethylene terephthalate) pellets. These pellets are then transformed into different products:

  • Beverage bottles – requiring food-grade purity

  • Plastic housings – for electronics, appliances, and packaging

  • Textile fibers – melt-spun into yarns, then knitted or woven into fabrics

From a chemistry perspective, bottles and garments share the same base polymer (PET). That simple fact is what makes “recycling” between packaging and textiles possible in the first place.

1.2 Misconception: Are polyester clothes made from plastic bottles?

Short videos of plastic bottles being shredded, melted, and spun into yarn have convinced many consumers that most polyester garments are made from recycled bottles.

In reality:

  • Many polyester garments are still made from virgin PET pellets, just like new plastic bottles.

  • Bottle-to-garment is only one specific recycling route within a much larger polyester system.

So while “made from recycled bottles” sounds impressive on a hangtag, it does not mean the garment itself is part of a fully circular loop.

1.3 Lifecycle #2: Bottle-to-garment recycling—and its limits

Where mechanical recycling works best today is bottle-to-garment, under relatively clean conditions:

  • Bottle → Garment: Clean, sorted PET bottles → washed, flaked, remelted → rPET pellets → spun into recycled polyester fibers and fabrics.

The problem shows up when we move in the other direction:

  • Garment → Bottle is essentially impossible in a food-grade system. Dyes, prints, finishes, and mixed fibers (cotton, elastane, nylon) introduce impurities that make the melt unsuitable for beverage packaging.

  • Even as textiles, quality drops each time PET is melted and re-extruded. Fibers become shorter or weaker, limiting how many times the material can be reused as apparel.

In other words, bottle-to-garment is mostly a one-way street, not a closed loop.

II. Carbios’ Enzyme Tech: Unlocking Infinite Polyester Lives

With 90% of global textiles containing polyester, traditional disposal methods (landfills/incineration) waste valuable resources. Chemical recycling dismantles polyester into raw monomers (PTA & MEG) for infinite reuse—until blended fabrics halted progress.

2. Why Most Polyester Garments Only Get 1–2 Lives

Mechanical recycling relies on heat and pressure to melt PET and form it again. Each cycle introduces small but important problems:

  • Impurities build up:
    Textile dyes, printing inks, finishes, sewing threads, elastane, and labels all end up in the recycling stream.

  • Additives accumulate:
    Polyester fabrics typically contain 0.5–3% by weight of additives and finishes. These weren’t designed to be melted repeatedly.

  • Material performance degrades:
    Heat and shear can break polymer chains, leading to lower strength, duller appearance, and less consistent quality.

Over time, this creates an irreversible degradation loop:

  1. Virgin PET → high-quality bottle or fiber

  2. First recycle → slightly lower-quality rPET (often into fibers or non-food packaging)

  3. Second recycle → downcycled into products such as insulation wadding, acoustic panels, or strapping

  4. End of life → landfill or incineration

For most garments, that means:

  • Virgin polyester → Garment (first life)

  • Bottle-derived rPET → Garment (second life)

  • After that, the material is usually downcycled or discarded, not returned to clothing again.

So under today’s mechanical systems, a polyester garment effectively has about one to two “technical lives, not infinite recycling.

3. Enzymatic Recycling: Unlocking Many More Lives for Polyester

With a very high share of global textiles containing polyester, sending garments to landfills or incinerators wastes an enormous amount of embedded energy and resources. That’s why chemical and enzymatic recycling have attracted so much attention: instead of heating and remolding PET, these processes break it back down into its original chemical building blocks.

For polyester garments, the most discussed route is enzymatic PET recycling, as developed by companies such as Carbios and their research partners.

3.1 How the Carbios enzyme works (in simple terms)

Carbios’ technology uses an engineered enzyme that specifically targets the ester bonds inside PET. In mixed plastic or textile waste:

  • The enzyme finds” the polyester and cuts it down into its monomers:

    • PTA (terephthalic acid)

    • MEG (mono-ethylene glycol)

  • Other materials like cotton, dyes, pigments, elastane, PE or PA are largely ignored, acting more like inert bystanders in the process.

  • The resulting monomers can be purified to around 99.5% purity and then re-polymerized into PET with properties equivalent to virgin resin.

In practical terms, that means:

Old polyester can be returned to its original chemical starting point and then rebuilt into “new” PET again and again.

This is the key difference from mechanical recycling, which can only reshuffle existing chains rather than reset them.

3.2 Solving the blended fabric roadblock

For years, blended fabrics (like cotton-poly T-shirts or polyester-elastane leggings) were a dead end for recyclers because:

  • Cotton burns or discolors at temperatures needed to melt PET

  • Elastane and other polymers contaminate the melt

  • Manually separating each component is unrealistic at scale

In an enzymatic process, the rules change:

  • The enzyme selectively depolymerizes polyester, even when it is blended with cotton, nylon, or elastane.

  • Cellulosic fibers (like cotton) remain as a separate solid fraction that can potentially be reused or processed differently.

Blends that were once “non-recyclable textiles” can now feed into a fiber-to-fiber recycling loop instead of going straight to landfill or incineration.

3.3 Proof of concept: White T-shirts from textile waste

By late 2024, Carbios had demonstrated the ability to turn mixed, colored polyester textile waste into new white T-shirts in collaboration with brands such as Salomon and Puma.

This proof-of-concept achieved several important milestones:

  • Dyes and additives were removed during depolymerization and purification, so no additional bleaching was required.

  • The process was compatible with multi-material blends (polyester/cotton/spandex), not only clean, mono-material waste streams.

  • The resulting PET was pure enough to make bright, white fabric, starting from unsorted, colored textile waste.

This shows how enzymatic recycling could, in theory, support many more “lives” for polyester garments than today’s mechanical systems allow.


4. What This Means for Fashion Brands and Suppliers

Enzymatic polyester recycling is still scaling up, but brands and sourcing teams don’t have to wait to start preparing.

Here are practical steps that can be taken today:

  • Ask the right questions about rPET

    • Is the recycled polyester coming mainly from bottles or from textile waste?

    • How traceable is the source?

  • Design for future recycling

    • Where possible, use simpler constructions and fewer blends.

    • Minimize unnecessary coatings, heavy prints, and complex trims that complicate future processing.

  • Choose “future-ready” fabrics

    • Work with mills that follow developments in chemical and enzymatic recycling and are open to testing compatible formulations.

  • Measure your polyester footprint

    • Track what percentage of your volume could theoretically feed into future enzymatic recycling streams (e.g., polyester-rich, low-contamination products).

The earlier brands start aligning design, materials, and suppliers with these future systems, the easier it will be to plug into closed-loop solutions when they become widely available.


5. FAQ: Common Questions About Polyester Recycling

5.1 Can polyester be recycled more than once?

With conventional mechanical recycling, PET can typically be recycled one or two times before quality drops too much for apparel use. Each melt cycle slightly damages the polymer chains. Enzymatic recycling, in contrast, aims to restore PET to its original monomers, which in theory allows for many more recycling loops.

5.2 Is turning bottles into T-shirts truly circular?

Not really. Bottle-to-garment avoids producing some virgin PET and is better than landfilling bottles, but it’s still mostly a one-way route. Once PET becomes a dyed, printed, blended garment, it’s very difficult to turn it back into food-grade bottles through mechanical means.

5.3 Can cotton-polyester blends be recycled?

Traditional recycling struggles with cotton-poly blends. Mechanical processes cannot easily separate fibers, and high temperatures damage the cotton. New enzymatic technologies are designed to target polyester selectively, enabling fiber-to-fiber recycling of blends that were previously considered non-recyclable.

5.4 What is the biggest barrier to enzymatic recycling today?

Key challenges include:

  • Scaling up industrial plants and securing enough feedstock

  • Cost and energy efficiency compared with virgin PET production

  • Building a collection and sorting ecosystem that can deliver suitable textile waste streams at scale

These are engineering and logistics challenges rather than purely scientific ones—but they are being actively worked on.

Conclusion: The Future Polyester Journey

Invented in 1941 as a “wonder material,” polyester helped fuel the growth of modern fashion and performance apparel. Its durability, however, also turned it into an environmental liability: once made, it tends to stay in the system—or the environment—for decades.

Mechanical recycling has shown that polyester can have more than one life, but usually only one or two. Enzymatic recycling goes further by resetting polyester to its original building blocks, allowing it to be rebuilt again and again with virgin-like quality.

In that sense, the future polyester system could resemble the Ship of Theseus: garments whose physical fibers are replaced again and again, while the underlying material remains in continuous circulation. If brands, mills, and recyclers work together, polyester garments may one day move from being a linear waste problem to a genuinely circular resource.

If you’re planning a new performance apparel line and want to use more responsible polyester fabrics, our team can help you evaluate fabric options, MOQ, and production routes.
Start with a custom polyester apparel project quote here.

 

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