How to Judge the Quality of a Garment Through Two Dimensions

In an era dominated by disposable ultra-fast fashion, where U.S. households discarded approximately 13.4 million tons of textiles in 2021 and low-quality materials and cost-cutting manufacturing abound, how do we cut through the price haze to determine whether a garment will become a wardrobe staple for the next five years or lose its buttons after the second wash?

Today, we’ll guide you through two key dimensions to assess a garment’s quality.

1. Construction: How the Garment is Assembled

Quality construction reflects time and care invested in the garment, whereas shortcuts to save time or costs often sacrifice durability.

① Stitch Length
Stitch length is a telltale sign of production speed. Longer stitches mean fewer contact points between fabrics, weakening seams over time. To test seam density, hold the garment up to a light and gently stretch the seam. If light visibly passes through, the seam will likely fail under repeated washing or stress.

② Pattern Matching on Straight Seams
This is critical for plaid, stripes, or repeating patterns. For example, mismatched checks at a center back seam reveal rushed production or poor quality control. While subtle in asymmetric prints or complex designs, misalignment is glaring in structured patterns like grids or stripes.

③ Zippers
Zippers are critical functional components, especially in fitted garments. Narrow zipper teeth (under 6mm for high-stress areas, 4mm for moderate fit) increase the risk of snagging or breaking. Quality zippers also require adequate seam allowance (extra fabric around the seam). Many manufacturers skimp on fabric here to cut costs.

④ Seam Finishing
Pay attention to seams like collars, cuffs, and hems. Fast fashion brands often use simple overlock stitches (raw edges bound together) instead of flat-felled or French seams, which are stronger but costlier. Poorly finished seams unravel faster during washing or stretching.

2. Hidden Details: The "Invisible" Quality Markers

True craftsmanship lies in the unseen. Here’s what separates durable garments from flimsy ones:

① Fabric Weight and Composition

• Weight: Heavier fabrics (e.g., denim over 12 oz/yd²) generally withstand wear better than thin, gauzy materials.
• Blends: Avoid polyester-heavy blends for breathability and longevity. Natural fibers like cotton, linen, or wool age gracefully, while synthetic blends pill or fade.

② Reinforcements
Check high-stress areas like buttonholes, pockets, and waistbands:

• Buttons sewn with shanks (thread loops) or reinforced with backings resist popping.
• Pocket corners should have bar tacks (thick, short stitches) to prevent tearing.

③ Lining and Interlining
A quality lining (e.g., Bemberg cupro or silk) extends a garment’s lifespan by reducing friction. Avoid glued-on interfacings; sewn-in interlinings (like canvas in jackets) maintain structure and drape.

④ Dye Consistency
Uneven dyeing or fading at seams hints at rushed processing. Rub the fabric with a white cloth—excessive color transfer indicates poor dye fixation.